Mongolia
Green plains span for miles with mountains forming a boundary
in the distance.
The white dots of the Gers scattered across these plains can be seen for miles, their flocks of
goats and sheep, or herds of horses and cattle, cluster nearby as a
moving blur with a single rider on horseback or motorbike or even sometimes on
foot, theoretically maintaining control.
With no fences the vans are forever dodging stray animals as
we scoot along one of few sealed roads in the country, and if there is no road
leading to where you want to go, you just head cross country and create a new
one.
The Mongols have free reign to set up camp wherever they
wish, only moving their flocks as needed to more verdant pastures, and taking
advantage of the short summer and snow-free grazing.
We've seen homes loaded on the back of utility trucks heading
off to the next set-up spot, as the dismantling and re-erection only takes a
few hours.
We've also seen young boys out bareback riding, practicing
for the naadam festival races which are on in a couple of days.
The vista is very like the southern flinders ranges but with
white dots.
Summer in Mongolia is incredibly short and the last snowfall
in the mountains was only a few weeks ago. This means that once the sun shine
warms the air, the locals love to get out and go camping.
The Ger camps where we are staying during our travels are
full of Mongolian tourists, which is lovely, as there are very few foreign
traveller's in this part of the world.
The pristine lakes we have been camping beside, are
surrounded by green, wild flower covered mountains. ( Ogii nuur)
Swimming, gazebo, mice, oncology volunteers, soccer, night
time revellers.
Ikh Tamir Rock
Yesterday, most of us ventured out on horseback (mongolian
sadlles and all) to explore some of this magnificent unfenced territory.
We climbed up a rocky gully to a hillside cave and fantastic
view back over the plains to Ikh Tamir from where we had ridden. Our horses
whinnied as we passed their unsaddled compatriots, and we really felt like we
were in the wild west.
Yak milking was a complete riot and I couldn't get a single
drop out, and yak riding was even more hysterical.
At Ikh Tamir the thing to do is to be able to throw a stone
over the 10m high rock to the other side to get your wish granted. Most
of us mere mortals could hardly get it halfway up the rock face but some of the
locals have been practising and can do it from kneeling down!!!@@!
It's here that bodhi has his first taste of wrestling, one of
the three events at the Naadam and he's getting in some practice with the aim
to join in on the day..
Naadam day 1
We drove through tsestserlegg and a visit to the handicraft
shop and monastery on to tariat Sum and the naadam arriving in perfect time for
the big race...the 25km ( with 25km warm up) for the boys under 12 on 5 year
old horses.
It was an exciting finish and the winning horses we're
proudly walked around and around cooling down, their sweat being scraped off
with special sticks and the locals snatching a sample of this prime sweat to
dab on their foreheads for luck.
The tiny exhausted jockeys are pretty much ignored, the
kudos at this time going to the owners and trainers.
Next up the wrestling and Marta has signed Bodhi up to join
in after his success with the local boys at Ikh Tamir. The officials do not
believe he is only 14 and ask for proof... But let him start off with the big
guys.
The outfits... Tight leather blue or red undies and bare
chested tops to prevent any female interlopers sneaking in to embarrass the
men. 4 officials and 2 pairs of wrestlers at a time, the prize...hard mare's
milk or yak cheese to eat and throw to your supporters.
The wrestling is beautiful, gentle and respectful, with
movements simulating the beating wings of an eagle.
The crowd roars when Bodhi comes out with little idea of what
to do, and once again when he is nimbly dropped to the ground in 5 seconds flat
by his much more experienced opponent.
He still gets rewarded with cheese and flings proudly
it over the crowd to more guffaws and cheers.
Next there's dancing singing and traditional music until the
heavens open up and the usual daily thunderstorm drenches us.
The fried dumplings, traditional fare at these events are
fabulous and cheap and an easy way to enjoy the much anticipated Mongolian
mutton, especially enjoyed with Lynwen's home made chili garlic salt (to add
flavour) brought all the way from home.
Continuing on we pass the volcanic scree slopes of the khorgo
volcano to reach the 26km long white lake and our ger camp on its edge.
khorgo volcano &.day 2 naadam,
The climb up the volcano is short and sweet with rewards of
views over green plains to the white lake beyond and also into the 80mt crater.
Bodhi is anxious not to be late for his 2nd chance in the
wrestling ring, so we head back into Tariat Sum for day 2 in this frontier-like
tiny township where everyone rides their horses through the streets dressed in
their best Del outfits. The men wear woollen robes with bright orange
(obi-like) belts wrapped around their hips, the fabric pouching above to make a
pocket where you can store your.......cheese of course, and your money if
there's any left after buying your cheese, and the women's version is an
embroidered Chinese style satin, with a glamorous thin belt.
Everyone wears boots...whether fashionable high heel ones or
the traditional embroidered heavy duty leather ones. Even the wrestlers do not
grace the stadium without their boots nor their velvet brocade peak hats.
It's unbelievably hot, (we were wearing full winter gear this
am due to the altitude) when Bodhi is called....Bhaghi is his Mongolian name.
He bravely stepped out, bowed, two slaps on the front of the thighs and
one on the back then forward to bow to the judges and hand over his hat. Then
it's forward to the flag for the eagle dance with his opponent.
In ten seconds it's over and Bodhi has to bow, walking
under his opponent's arm to signal his defeat. The winner heads to the flags and
does the victory eagle dance, and gets his cheese, both bow to the judges and
get their hats returned.
We then watch the presentation of prizes for the horse racing
and at last the riders get acknowledgement.
The prizes are a carpet, varying in size as to where you came
in the race, and framed plaque which the boys clutch proudly.
Still it seems like a solemn occasion, and apart from the
drunken trainer who is also treated with great respect even though he is
crawling under his horse mid arena...everyone treats the ceremony with much
reverence.
As photographic bystanders we too are well treated and
offered cheese and smiles for the photos.
The official photos seem to include, the owner, trainer,
rider, mum and dad, and interestly enough, a couple of representatives from the
local constabulary.
Mare's milk is first offered to the rider then poured over
the head and the flank of the horse.
We tried it today and.......hmmmm, surprise surprise, it
tastes just like fermented mare's milk, and a little alcoholic to boot.
When we return to camp there are 4 new Gers under
construction...from scratch. The slabs are down and the "eye of god"
centre piece is ready but most of the other bits need to be cut or assembled.
Andrew knuckles down to help out for a few hours but at
midnight we can still hear the hammering of the furniture to go
inside.
Nonetheless when he opens the door the next morning there is
already someone sleeping inside.
On the edge of the lake, cairns have been erected in
volcanic rock. Originally it was a movie set, but now whoever feels the need
can erect their own monument.
Toby took the initiative to build a "Ger to Go" one
and then wrote a note to enclose in a time capsule to be buried within. A
sunset ceremony, with speeches, laughs and of course the mandatory million
photos then ensued.
Mongolia is one of the most beautiful countries I have
visited.
It's the space, the never ending vistas so similar to those
seen in Aus but green...rolling hills capped with pines and flocks or herds of
animals everywhere.
The people too are lovely. They are hard working, quiet,
respectful, polite, and charming. Not overtly smiling and open like Aussies,
but still spontaneous and generous.
With such a small population, and vast landscape, the
priorities are very different. Their chinese neighbours do not have a
good reputation here and I can understand why.
We have been lucky to visit a couple of "real" Gers
where families of 5 or more are living. Airaigh, (marr'smilk) pronounced
arak, is offered plus all it's by-products, dried yogurt curls, thick
buttery cream, flat white hard rubbery cheese, sometimes some hard sweet
crumbly cheese, and if you're lucky some fried bread to eat with it.
Make sure you accept the food with 2 hands, never just the left,
and don't bump into anyone's feet...or point as it's bad form.
The Gers have had satellite dishes, tho not all do,
usually powering an ancient tv or similar so they can watch the
Naadam festival on screen, either locally or in UB, a substitute for being
there in person.
We thanked their hospitality with a gift of vodka and sweets.
Horse riding to the Tuvkhum monastery was an epic but
fabulous 25km adventure for those that didn't (a) fall off, (b) have a
horse that took off at a gallop off across the steppe, chasing the saddle-less
horse that had just thrown its rider, (c) have a saddle that was taking a chunk
out of your coccyx, (d) have stirrups so short your knees were around your
ears, (e) get stung by horse flies, or (f) a horse that decides to sit down mid
trot for a roll in the dirt.
4 hours later we were hot, dusty, stiff and very chuffed, to
have made it. And all for $15.
It was the subsequent 21/2 hour walk up to the monastery that
really did us in.
We love Mongolia!
Hot Springs to Arvaiheer
Although the distances we've been covering here are not
great....neither are the roads, and there is a lot of cross country driving, or
puddle dodging, that makes a short distance (40 Mongolian minutes) into a half
day adventure.
The scenery is amazing and with lightening and thunder
highlighting the landscape daily, then disappearing and converting to blazing
sunshine soaring temperatures and clear blue skies.
A bit like Melbourne really.
We drove past a desert like sand dube out crop and had the
opportunity, which of course we couldn't turn down, to ride the famous two hump
baktrian camels. Very comfy actually..for a short journey but I'm not sure
about a long haul trek ...just at the moment.
We have arrived in Arvaiheer, a city of 28,000 reluctant
nomads settling in a small town...not quite so frontier land as some oft the
smaller towns we have visited, but still...I can see the steppe in 4 directions
from our hotel. Lol.
We have started the build and are working hard!!!
It's a steep learning curve and every day we are putting new
skills into practice.
Today I learned gyprocking...and tomorrow it'll probably be
flushing.
All good fun, lots of breaks, and a fantastic experience to
share with a mongolian family.....who are also sharing the trials and
tribulations of a new home build.
We've just bought some new tools to contribute....and
some hand made Mongolian boots.
Bring on winter...we're prepared.!!!
Although Arvaiheer is the capital of the remote Arkhangai
region, from our hotel room, we can see beyond the colourful roofs of the
township to the steppe and mountains in every direction.
It is tiny, but expanding slowly as the nomadic people move
into town with their Gers, park on some vacant outskirts land and request
permission to stay and put up a fence...hence stating their permanence and
possession of title at the same time.
Out on the steppe there are no fences and people are entitled
to move or stay wherever their flocks require. These days though, many of the
nomadic people send their children off to stay with older relatives living in
these townships during the harsh winter months so they can still attend school,
while mum and dad and the younger siblings remin to battle it out in the Ger
and the cold.
The family we are building for have 2 young boys aged
10 and 15 but throughout the week there is almost always a younger one there,
perhaps a cousin...? Bodhi had a fantastic time with them all and was
grateful to have company with anyone other thatn "the oldies" he'd
been travelling with, who continually gave him advice
about……oh...everything.
Grandma also is in residence, a fit 61 year old who works
tirelessly to look after the kids, the ger and us, with snacks etc, while
mum and dad slog it out on the worksite with us.
Mum is definitely in charge and always keeping an watchful
eye on what everyone is doing.
On arrival the frame is up and the bricking started...
We start each day with the foreman explaining to the Habitat
translator and then to us, what we will be required to do each day.
Lay bricks, make cement, sift gravel, cut and
fit polystyrene insulation, more cement, cut and fit the hardy
board that will be the internal walls, more insulation, re-do the bricks that
had been done badly, (not by us of course), make more cement, move 10
tons of soil into the house for the floor, more bricking, more cement then cut
and fit the roof frame.
After all that shovelling we're a bit weary but there's still patching up the brickwork to fit the lintels and fitting the ceiling frame to do.
Most days we need to head out to get tools because they are
either broken, or in short supply, the best purchase being a wheel barrow...of
sorts... which was a huge godsend for moving the soil. We donated this to the
family to use for carrying water as previous ti this the two little boys would
have to walk to a communal pump house and haul bucket-fulls back to the Ger.
The house will be divided into two with a cement firebrick wall being the stove and heating for the house and efficiently working to warm both rooms, the first,the kitchen the second the living/bedroom. We saw a finished Habitat house and marvelled at how such a small space could be used so efficiently.
The facilities
On our last day the family cooked and served us freshly prepared "Bouz"…dumplings…plus of course the mandatory cheese, butter, fermented mare's milk which we're getting into now, milk tea, and Mongolian home made Kim chi. Yum.
From this view you can see that the houses on the fringe of the town. The one we're building is on the fence line with no roof and people walking on the ceiling.
Where we had to leave the house...unsatisfactorily not finished!
For our last night in Arvaiheer, we invited the family and
the Habitat staff out for (foolishly) pizza, and fortunately Andrew dressed us
in his Deel, (the local male outfit that he had bought from one of the Ger
owners a couple of weeks ago).
Unfortunately none of the Mongolians ate Pizza...oh well!
We were sad to leave the countryside and head back into Ulaabaatar,
but sadder to get on the plane and say farewell to the gers, the last of which
we saw dotted over the green carpet of Mongolia before we crossed the border
and flew over China, a vastly different landscape, bearing no resemblance
to its neighbour.
We were also sad to leave the lovely Mongolian people, and a
culture that I can only see changing as the people and lifestyle become more
urbanised. It was a privilege to have had the opportunity to be a part of
it, even if only for a short while and we'd love to return there one day to
perhaps explore the Gobi and the great Kusgul lake in the north and meet some
more of these quiet reserved people.
